Sunday, 17 June 2012

Peljesac - Wine, Oysters & Beaches

Pelješac is passed over by most visitors to Dubrovnik but locals are drawn to its very lack of tourists, fine wines, long shingle beaches and, most of all, the best mussels and oysters in Croatia. They are farmed at Ston, one of the two key destinations on the Pelješac peninsula, which sticks out 90km towards Korčula. The other is Orebić, a resort in its own right, a quick hop and a quieter alternative to Korčula. A windsurfing scene nearby gives it the younger edge that Korčula lacks. One road runs the length of the peninsula, and unless you have a car, your best bet is to head for Ston, where Pelješac meets the mainland, by bus from Dubrovnik, or cross from Ploče to Trpanj.
With your own transport, you can drive the 65km of vineyard-lined road, calling at wine cellars serving the famed Postup and Dingač reds.
Ston’s natural lake-like bay has hosted mussel and oyster farms since Roman times. In summer, locals sell 5kn oysters by the side of the road. Renowned restaurants from here to Dubrovnik feature Ston oysters on their menus. The Ostrea Edulis variety can only be found in Ston. Smaller than its Atlantic counterpart, it is served open on its flat side. The meat is also firmer and richer flavoured. It is also not cut off from its shell, so don’t tip it down your throat
Excellent beaches stretch either side of the main road too. On the north side, Divna, near the tiny village of Duba, some 6km from Trpanj, is secluded and sandy. Prapratno, 3km west of Ston, is also sandy. On the south side, Žuljana, before Trstenik, is a lovely village in a bay where you’ll find several beaches. The most beautiful is Vučine, 15 minutes’ walk south.
Ston is really two towns in one, linked by hilltop fortifications. Ston, called Veliki (‘Great’) to distinguish it from its smaller sister of Mali Ston, has its own historic walls (now open to the public), built to protect the salt pans there. Half the 14th-century towers and walls remain, surviving the earthquake of 1996 that destroyed houses in both towns. Damage is still visible.
Orebić has package hotels and standard restaurants, but has more to pack into a weekend. A major trading centre until the late 19th century, it contains grand villas festooned with greenery, built by retired sea captains. Its main sight is a Franciscan monastery (summer 9am-noon, 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 4-7pm Sun; 15kn) on a hilltop 20 minutes’ walk from the Hotel Bellevue. Built in the late 15th century, it houses Our Lady of the Angels, an icon said to protect sailors in the Pelješac Channel picturesquely spread below. Before you reach it, another trail leads to the summit of Sv Ilija, with views from 961 metres high.

Locals come to Orebić and nearby for its beaches. The nicest one is Trstenica, sandy, with a few bars and a section for naturists. It’s a 20-minute stroll east of the ferry terminal. Boats make regular journeys to Viganj, a popular spot for windsurfing. A north-western afternoon wind makes it ideal for intermediate surfers. Beginners are best going out on summer mornings, for the mild wind from the south-east.
Viganj has three churches. The oldest, the 16th-century St Liberan – more a chapel, really – sits on the main spit of beach that is the windsurfing hub. The other two, Our Lady of the Rosary and 18th-century St Michael’s, are on the way to a historic local point of interest: the Nakovana archaeological site, with evidence of the Stone Age.
(This article comes courtasy of timeoutcroatia.com)

Wednesday, 9 May 2012

Dubrovnik Old City & Cruise Ships

Often times, our experience showed us, Dubrovnik, Croatia ends up being the highlight of many a cruise vacation. That’s why, no matter how you decide to get to the Dubrovnik Old Town, you simply have to get there! And we’ll tell you how to do that.

Three different things can happen when it comes to getting to Dubrovnik. Your ship can either:

  • Dock at the new port of Dubrovnik, Gruz
  • Anchor in front of the Old Town of Dubrovnik
  • Anchor in front of the new port of Gruz
At the beginning of 2010, the construction work on expanding the new port of Gruz was finally finished. From now on, even the biggest cruise ships will be able to dock at the Gruz port, and it’s able to accommodate a few of them at the same time. If you are an experienced cruiser, you probably know that docking is a much more favoured option when it comes to getting off the ship in ports of call.

You simply choose the time you want to get off and walk off the ship. Anchoring is the least favourite option with cruisers, as it involves a little bit of a wait to get on the little tender boats that will take you ashore. Still, depending on the organization onboard the ship, it can run very smoothly and you can often times enjoy great destination vistas as you approach the shoreline in a small tender boat. Considering the number of cruise ships that can visit Dubrovnik at the same time, which can amount to more than 5 on some days… for some cruise ships anchoring and tendering will be inevitable.

Getting to Dubrovnik from your cruise ship - Anchoring

If your cruise ship is one of those that anchor in this port, as mentioned above, they can do that at two completely different sides of the town.
1. Anchoring in front of Dubrovnik Old Town – this is an amazing way to get introduced to this breathtaking port! Get out on the open deck with your camera and enjoy the view… the Old Town will almost be in the palm of your hand!
On the other side, there is the little island of Lokrum, a peaceful and lush oasis for those who want to enjoy a day of swimming.
Your tender boats will drop you right in the Old harbour from where you are only a few steps away from Stradun, the main street of Dubrovnik, cafes, museums and shops!
2. Anchoring in front of the Gruz port - in this case your ship will anchor 2,5 km northwest of the Old Town of Dubrovnik. A five-minute tender boat ride will take you to the new, recently reconstructed port standing in the shade of the big white suspension bridge.
From here you will still need to get some kind of land transportation to the Old Town. For more info on that read the docking instructions below.

Getting to Dubrovnik from your
cruise ship – Docking

If your ship is docking in Dubrovnik, it will always be in the port of Gruz. This port is 2.5 km away from the Old town of Dubrovnik. So when it comes to getting to Dubrovnik you will need some kind of motorized transportation.
Here are your options:
1. Taking one of the cruise line organized tours. If this is your first visit to Dubrovnik, make sure you choose one of the tours that will take you to the Old Town and give you some time off here to walk around and explore! Really, this is where you want to spend your day!
2. Taking a taxi
– there are always taxis available right in front of the cruise ship. They will charge you about $10 or 50 kn (Croatian kunas) to Pile Gate, which is where you enter the Old Town. Split between up to 4 people it’s actually quite an affordable, quick and hassle-free way of getting to Dubrovnik Old town.
3. Taking the ship organized transfer bus – some cruise lines will charge for this service and others will not. Inquire about your Dubrovnik transfers, once on the cruise ship, at the Tour desk!
These buses will also drop you off right by the Pile Gate where the pedestrian area of the Old town starts. The ride takes about 10-15 minutes, depending on traffic.
This is where you will catch them to get back to the cruise ship too. Just make sure you inquire what time the last bus back to the port is.All ships that tender/dock in Gruz will have their bus drop offs here, so also make sure you get on the right bus for the right cruise ship when coming back. Most cruise lines will have organized a staff member to wait for the cruisers there and keep them organized in a line. Due to the crowds and long intervals in which buses show up to pick up the guests, it can get very crazy and stressful there. So either be very patient or choose to take one of the last buses, as usually most people will have departed earlier in fear of missing the ship. As long as you catch that last bus, you’ll be fine! ☺
4. Taking a local bus – yes, there is a local bus station on the main street in front of the cruise terminal and you can take getting to Dubrovnik into your own hands. You will find it next to a little newspaper/magazine stall. Just remember you will need some local currency to purchase the bus ticket. If your ship visits Split before coming to Dubrovnik, you might still have some Croatian kunas sitting in your pocket, but if it doesn’t you’ll need to get them somehow. Most ships will not have any kunas available onboard. That’s why you will need to get some at the money exchange office or ATM machine at the Main Bus station, which is right next to the local bus stop. Get your local bus ticket in the news-stand for 8kn per person (just over €1) or on the bus for a little more - 10kn.Look for buses #1, #1A or #1B.Get on the bus through the front door only and validate the ticket in the little machine by the driver. You will get off at the last stop which is right in front of the Pile gate, which is the entrance into the Old town of Dubrovnik. From there, getting around Dubrovnik is very easy – you will most likely spend all day inside the walled Old town which is a pedestrian only area and you will not need any other means of transportation. With all these options, you won’t have any problems getting to Dubrovnik Old Town and enjoying your day there.

(This article comes courtasy of mediterranean-cruise-ports-easy.com)

Wednesday, 28 March 2012

Dubrovnik Kitesurfing & Wind Surfing

Viganj, a small village on the Peljesac peninsula (about 30 min. by car from Dubrovnik), these days has become the favourite meeting spot for wind and kite surfers from all over Europe and world on the Dubrovnik Riviera. Sea channel between Pelješac and Korčula and the wind that blows in it provides ideal conditions for windsurfing and kite surfing. Such conditions are due to his position at the narrowest part of Pelješac channel due which when the wind blows gets multiple acceleration. Viganj today has become a favourite meeting spot for wind and kite surfers. In the summer, mistral (northwest) is blowing and this wind is the best for enjoyments in this sports, his virtue is a constancy and a small wave, which enables the achievement of adrenaline speed!

Mistral usually starts around 12am and lifts up, at the right speed from 02pm to 08pm, the average strength reaches 5 beau forts, and if you are happy, up to 8!


All this enables ideals conditions for various competitions. It should be pointed out that in 1989 and 1990 the World Cup in Wind Surfing took place right here. In addition, Viganj traditionally hosts an Open Championship of Croatia in windsurfing.


In the summer there are several schools for wind and kite surfing, most of which rent a wide range of equipment from Surfing Boards, Safety Equipment, to Kites and Swimming gear. Morning is ideal for first steps due to light breeze, and the channel appears like a lake and gives a feeling of safety for beginners and children.In the last several years expansion of kite surfing and theirs arrival in greater numbers are forming along with windsurfers spectacular pictures in the channel.


What most people don't know is that, Viganj has conditions to surf all year round. The temperature of the sea does not fall below 15 degrees, and has plenty of wind, and southern winds take control of the channel, with the average strength of 5 to 6 beau forts to lay up to 8 and more.


Sometimes in the winter during low pressure fronts the wind that forms is called Tremuntana, which by its characteristics is similar to mistral. Its energy is quite strong and can cause damage to anything that isn’t tied down. Tremuntana’s powerful tendencies usually lasts a day before breaking up. The famous Bura Wind (off shore wind) tends to be more consistent during the winter and autumn periods. The only snag with it is that it pushes the flow of air upwards at irregular intervals. Forming unstable pockets of congested air at various levels of the channel, the hazard of being pulled 20 meters into the air, is more than evident. Since Bura Winds are most powerful out at Sea (rather then close to shore), anyone surfing beyond 30 metres is requested to be vigilant (Hard Hats & Life Jackets provided).


For the adventures types who like surprises and happen to be advanced Surfers (Kite/Wind), the Peljesac Korcula channel is a god send!


Kite Surfing Today in Croatia


Kite surfing on the Adriatic started to take off in early 2000. Because of strong pulling power of the proceeding winds at certain places, Kite Surfing & Wind Surfing Industries cantered around technological advances, are not only shaping the Tourist Industry on the Adriatic but also shaping the new Entrepreneurial face of manufacturing at various places in Croatia. About 10% of all Kite Surfing equipment sold across the EU is produced in places like Karlovac & Varazdin!


There are a few other places in the Dubrovnik area where the wind gradiant reaches well adjusted speeds. Around the St Jacob's (Sandy) Beach at the South-Eastern edge of Dubrovnik City, is one of them. Comfortable winds form surface waves from the edge of the sheltered lagoon. While the winds there aren't as powerful as the once at Viganj, for a beginner/intermediate Wind Surfers, there isn't a better place. Other places in and around Dubrovnik include, Neretva Delta (40min by car), Konavle Cliffs (20-25min by car), Karbuni at Korcula Island (2.5 hours by car & ferry) , Kolocep Channel (10-20 min by car).


 


(Most of this article comes courtesy of viganj.org with bits edited & added. Many Thanks for that!)

Saturday, 10 March 2012

Dubrovnik Explained - Cultural Dos & Don'ts

All visitors have an effect not just on the place they're visiting but on its people too. There are numerous arguments for and against this which don't need to be enumerated here - suffice it to say that it's worth considering both the environmental and social effects of your visit.

Environment
Dubrovnik's environment is in good shape, so don't spoil it - preserving it is in everyone's interest.
The biggest impact you personally can have on the environment is to start a fire on one of the islands. There's almost nothing that can be done once a fire's out of control, as the forests tend to be tinder-dry in summer. Indeed, unless there's a plentiful supply of water close by, it's advisable to avoid fires (or even naked flames) altogether.
Litter by comparison, is a simple question of ugliness. Dubrovnik's old town is cleaned every day, but that's no excuse for not finding a bin to put your litter in. Out of town, where stuff won't necessarily be picked up by the authorities, the issue is even more important. Paper tissues take months to deteriorate, orange peel positively glows, and tin cans always look horrible. So take your litter with you - and if you collect any you find along the way you can feel suitably saintly about yourself. If you're in the wilds, and you can't find a toilet, do at least bury your doings - there are few sights (or sensations) more unpleasant than coming across someone else's.

Dress/Naturism
In summer you won't look out of place in shorts and T-Shirt, but you won't be welcome in churches if you're too skimpily dressed. Seaside topless sunbathing won't usually offend, but you shouldn't really be anywhere off the beach in your swimsuit (or indeed out of it).
Since Croatia is the main homing ground for the great European naturist - and hundreds of thousands come every year just to get their kit off here - you're never that far from a naturist beach. The island of Lokrum, all of 15 minutes away, is the nearest to Dubrovnik. Naturist beaches are usually marked by 'FKK' signs.
Croatia's also the only country I've ever been to where you can go on a naturist sailing holiday. If that’s your predilection, mind your tackle!

Gay/Lesbian
Homosexuality may have been legalised a generation ago in Croatia, but you won't find people particularly tolerant or open about it. The country's first-ever gay parade wasn't held until June 2002, in Zagreb, and only a few hundred people took part - heavily protected from hecklers by a slew of riot police.
Most activity is still very much underground, and there isn't any kind of gay/lesbian scene in Dubrovnik, one of Croatia's most tolerant and liberal cities. Same-sex couples (men in particular) can still raise eyebrows (or even hackles) when checking into hotels. How you handle this will of course be up to you - some may be happy with a plausible cover story; others may find this stance too hypocritical. As everywhere, younger people tend to be more tolerant than their elders.

Drugs
Illegal drugs are best avoided. They're available, but the penalties are stiff, and harsher still for smuggling - and don't for heaven's sake be tempted or tricked into carrying anything illegal across borders.

Tipping
A service charge isn't included in your restaurant bill, so - assuming the service has been good - it's appropriate to round up to the nearest, 10 kuna or so. Don't be afraid not to tip if you think the service has been terrible, but equally don't be stingy - waiting staff in Dubrovnik aren't as well off as you are. Taxi drivers the world over expect fares to be rounded up, and those in Dubrovnik are no exception.

(Article written courtesy of the book 'Dubrovnik - The Bradt City Guide', by Piers Letcher). Many thanks for that!